Everybody has a little tip to make maintenace easier. Heres the place to share it with your fellow "A"ers


Through the years I've collected many helpful tech tips. At the time they were for my personal use, never thinking I would be using them on a website.

 I did not keep track of where I got them or who wrote them.  I want to thank everyone who has posted tips over the years to help make the hobby easier for others. 

Previous Articles

Articles previously on this page are available  by clicking on the link below




                                       Ford Model "A" and "AA" Parts Price List
I just received a reprint of the Parts Price List originally published by the Ford Motor Company in 1931. This booklet lists parts for the Model A and AA. Along with all the variations of each part it gives the price from that time period.  At one time most parts venders used the Ford parts numbering system for their catalogs. Now every vender has their own system and no two appear to be the same. I started using Fords system to inventory all my spare parts. The only way I had to convert the venders part number was to keep an old catalog around for cross reference. This handy little booklet not only helps me make sure what the correct part I need is, but it has also become my new cross reference guide.

                                     Model A Crank Handle
Recently I've seen a few of our members with ads looking for a crank handle. Ford produced six different configurations of the crank handle. There are many crank handles out there that are not for the Model A also. If you are looking for one to complete a tool set for our car check out the chart above to make sure it is the
correct one for yourr time period.
Have you been hitting the car shows lately looking for parts or have found a good resource for information? You grab a scrap of paper and write down the information and lose it before you get home. Possibly some one has parts at home and will get back to you on them.  Again you grab a scrap of paper and jot down your info. Check your computer to see if you have a program on it that will allow you to print up business cards. Design one for your needs.  Stick a few in your wallet. They work great to hand out to fellow Model A'ers and also to put notes on the back of for future reference.
I was recently working on a wiper motor and ran across this article on the internet. It did not give an authors name and therefore I can not give credit where credit is due.
It also had a great schematic of the wiper assembly. If you would like a copy of it let me know.
                              Lubricating the Vacuum Wiper Motor
The Trico type wiper motor does not operate properly without an internal lubricant. This is especially the case when a rebuilding kit has been installed, since the reciprocating parts fit tightly, resulting in high friction. An opposite effect occurs in the used motor where the reciprocating parts are worn. In this case, internal leakage of air past the seals occurs. Believe it or not, the performance of the engine is
affected as leakage in the wiper motor lowers the intake manifold vacuum and leans out the fuel‐air mixture.
In consideration of the above points, an ideal wiper motor lubricant must reduce friction and have a high enough viscosity not to act as a sealant. Additionally, the lubricant must not congeal in cold weather, must not thicken with age, must not cause corrosion of the die cast and brass parts, and must not attack the leather or plastic seals. The author has tried several lubricants, but two have given the best
performance. Marvel Mystery Oil works well, particularly on a rebuilt motor. It has one drawback: the viscosity of the Mystery Oil is a bit too low. In a relatively short time, the oil is sucked out of the wiper motor by the engine manifold vacuum. On the other hand, brake fluid is excellent. It lasts longer than mystery old due to its higher viscosity, and is especially effective on an old motor which has been idle for years.
[Editor Note: Using brake fluid as a lubricant is not recommended by Chuck Christensen, 2012 MAFCA Technical Director, as spilled brake fluid can damage the car's paint, either during the lubrication or afterward during wiper use. Instead, use a light machine oil.]
Here's how to lubricate the motor, which should be done three or four times a year:
1. Remove the vacuum hose at the wiper motor. Lightly hold your finger over the hose nipple on the motor and cycle the wiper blade back and forth.. Note that in one direction the motor sucks in air, and in the opposite direction, the motor expels air through the nipple. Place the wiper blade in the position such that the motor will begin to suck air at the nipple.
2. Attach a six‐inch long piece of hose to the motor nipple and hold the open end up. Using a squeeze bottle, force one teaspoonful of lubricant into the hose. Place a rag on the cowl below the wiper motor. Hold another rag over the open end of the hose.
3. Cycle the wiper blade back and forth several times. Repeat the process again, adding a second teaspoonful of lubricant.
4. Start the engine and run the wiper motor. It should run well. If it does not, the wiper motor should be disassembled, cleaned, inspected and a rebuilding kit installed. It is normal for the wiper to slow down when the car is accelerated, but it should not stop altogether.
One last point to note. If you test run the wiper motor on a modern car and it runs real well, it may not do so on the "A". Always test the wiper motor on the car it was designed for, the Model A!
If the roof doesn't leak, now you are ready to run the "A" in the rain.
From the collections of Henry Ford Museum & Greenfield Village Research Center
Thought this flowsheet may be of some help in diagnosing some of those hard to figure out repairs
This Tech Tip was in the January/ february issue of the restorer Magazine Thanks to Charles Cheshire for his tip.